Don’t attempt any of the hands-on procedures unless you are confident in your technical ability, are skilled in using tools and know how to be safe around high voltage battery packs (eg. up to 84V).
This is not an instruction manual nor is it an encouragement to work on your own bike. Braaap can not take responsibility for your safety or workmanship. Please be careful and be smart.
I. Accessing the controller and bike wiring (with the bike switched OFF)
What you will need:
- 5mm hex key
- 10mm socket/spanner
- Philips head screwdriver
- An old towel or similar to lay your panels on
- Remove the 2 side panels under the seat (2 bolts each - one on the side, 1 under the rear wheel arch)
- Remove the seat (2 bolts - 1 on each side)
- Remove the top panels (3 bolts each)
- Remove the tank (2x 10mm bolts at the rear + 1 bolt on each side at the front)
When reattaching the panels be careful not to over tighten the bolts - you make crack the panel.
Assume that all the thicker cables connected to the controller are live even with the bike switched off.
II. Physical Checks (with the bike switched OFF)
The red/black cables are the battery input cables to the controller - assume they are live even with the bike switched off. The yellow/green/blue cables are the 3-phase power output cables to the motor. All these cables should be firm and the connections should show no signs of movement. Check all the low voltage plugs/sockets for movement, damaged wires, dislodged pins etc. Especially check the motor encoder cables - a 6-pin (3x2) connector that comes out of the cable bundle from the motor (follow the yellow/green/blue cables from the controller to find the bundle. Take photos to send through if you have been having problems. The wiring layout and controller might look slightly different between the different bike models.
Check the entry points for the motor cables into the rear hub. Please send through a photo from top and bottom - we’re looking to see any cable damage or dislodged seals.
III. Battery Management System & ANT BMS app
ANT BMS app
‘EQ_Name’ = BMS/bike name for bluetooth connection
This is what to look for when you are setting up. The number on the end will be unique to your bike
Press the ‘DeviceList’ button to access a screen scanning/selecting your BMS bluetooth connection. You don’t need to pair it from the iOS settings.
If the ‘Run_Time’ is changing then you’re connected.
BMS status
These 3 green dots are indicators of the BMS status
Battery State of Charge % in the blue circle
Battery health
PackV = battery voltage
MaxunitV and MinunitV are the highest and lowest battery cell voltages and unitVDiff is the difference between them (usually < 0.020V)
Current and Power are showing the energy use from the battery - will usually be about 7W or similar when stopped.
WarningInfo - shows any warnings from the BMS
screen capture area for screen recording is above this line
Battery internal temperature indicators - they should all be similar and if any are negative then the bike won’t operate.
Battery individual cell readings
The lowest cell will be in blue, highest in orange.
It’s worth getting a screenshot of this section - especially if the unitVDiff is high (eg. > 0.020V)
* If screen recording then make sure you change your phone settings so that it doesn’t go to sleep while recording - this will disrupt the Bluetooth connection to the BMS. On an iPhone that’s under ‘Settings / Display & Brightness’.
- There is a Chinese language version of ANT BMS for Android with more limited capabilities. Screenshots are still useful. There may be an updated version of this app so keep an eye out for a message on your phone that a more recent version is available and download that one.
- Sometimes the ANT BMS app starts up with this screen. Press the ‘Bluetooth’ button (2nd from top-right) to access the BMS details shown above.
IV. Capturing data from your controller while riding - FarDriver app and Bluetooth dongle
By using the FarDriver app and a Bluetooth dongle you can see a dashboard showing many of your controller’s parameters. By using screen recording on your phone this information can be captured during a ride.
What you will need:
- FarDriver app
- Bluetooth dongle
- A phone with screen recording ability
Screen recording instructions for iOS are here.
Make sure you change your phone settings so that it doesn’t go to sleep while recording - this will disrupt the bluetooth connection to the controller. On an iPhone that’s under ‘Settings / Display & Brightness’.
FarDriver app & Bluetooth dongle
You can use a PC and USB adaptor to connect to the bike along with FarDriver software, but we have found it simpler to use a TTL serial to Bluetooth dongle (something like this) and smart phone with the FarDriver app (eg. iOS version here). Note that there is no password security on this app/dongle so you should NOT leave it connected to your bike. You don’t want someone messing with your controller settings!
The dongle connects to the wiring loom coming from the 30 pin connector on your controller. On some bikes this socket can be found by looking between the battery case and outer fairing on the left hand side of the bike. If not then you will need to access this connector from under the ‘tank’ (see Section 1 on removing the bike panels).
- Connecting the Bluetooth dongle
On some bikes there will be a 3-wire extension coming from this socket up to under the passenger seat next to a charging plug. You can disconnect this lead at the controller end to plug in your Bluetooth dongle. When finished, you may find it convenient to leave this socket in an accessible position between the battery case and outer fairing on the left hand side of the bike.
- Connecting to the controller
Note: this app lets you change the whole range of settings within your controller - don’t mess with anything unless you are absolutely sure what the effects will be - you could easily make your bike unsafe or cause permanent damage to your bike that would not be covered by warranty.
1) Connecting to your bike’s controller.
- Once you open the app, click the Comms icon in the lower-right corner of the screen
- Click ‘Scan’ - you should see your controller appear in the list eg. YuanQuFOC214 or similar.
- Select the controller and click ‘Connect’.
- You should see the ‘Received Frames’ number ticking over.
2) Getting into the dashboard.
- Click the ‘Graph’ icon at the bottom.
- You will see a dashboard like display including;
- controller power, current & temperature
- motor RPM, phase current, & temperature (not on some bikes)
- battery capacity & voltage
- throttle level
- Average speed, power consumption
3) Recording the data
With the FarDriver app active, start screen recording and go for your ride. Don’t attempt to read the app dashboard while riding - it’s far too small. The screen recording will work equally well if the phone is in your pocket.
V. Sights & sounds - Observations to make
Normal start-up sights & sounds:
- a single non-repeating beep from the controller
- a short buzz sound from the ABS
- dash does a boot-up sequence - wait until after the speedo dial returns to zero before applying throttle.
- dash then displays the nominal battery pack voltage (72V) and the ODO reading
- the under the USB cover (bottom left of dash) - blue LED indicates 12V system is OK (can also check with blinkers/hazards/headlights)
- dash displays power level (1/2/3) and if the kickstand is down.
Normal shutdown sights & sounds:
- 2 loud beeps from the alarm system
Abnormal sights & sounds:
- any repeating set of beeps from the controller (see table on next page)
- loud bangs/clunks from the motor when the throttle is applied (usually error beeps will follow)
Battery voltages:
[under construction - add battery voltage/charge curve, 20 cells]
Controller fault code table
| No. of beeps | Fault description | Indicated fault |
| 1 | Motor hall failure | The wire signal between the controller and the motor is not connected properly |
| 2 | Accelerator pedal failure | The accelerator does not return to zero, or the accelerator pedal is broken. Note that when the controller is restarted, the fault will be displayed by default and the fault will disappear after the self-test is passed. |
| 3 | Current protection restart | Abnormal protection alarm |
| 4 | Phase current overcurrent | Abnormal protection alarm |
| 5 | Voltage failure | The voltage is too low or too high beyond the range of use |
| 6 | Anti-theft alarm signal | (reserve) |
| 7 | Motor overheating | Motor temperature is too low or too high beyond the range of use |
| 8 | Controller over temperature | Controller temperature is too low or too high beyond the range of use |
| 9 | Phase current overflow | Abnormal protection alarm |
| 10 | Phase current zero fault | Controller internal alarm |
| 11 | Phase short circuit fault | Phase wire short circuit, or motor failure |
| 12 | Wire current zero fault | Controller internal alarm |
| 13 | MOSFET upper bridge fault | The bridge on the controller is damaged |
| 14 | MOSFET lower bridge fault | The lower bridge of the controller is damaged |
| 15 | Peak line current protection | Hardware overcurrent protection alarm |
Comments
0 comments
Please sign in to leave a comment.